You are welcome to experiment with all of these areas, but the only one I usually check is the bottom option. If I did handheld shots without a tripod, then I would also select the first one there to auto-align. And then you will see…this! On the right are the my presets. Whenever I click on a preset, it dramatically moves around the sliders and drop-downs on the left.
You can create your own preset or download one from the internet. Sunsets, middle of the day, interiors, etc. So, I usually come into Photomatix and just click around on many of my different presets. Some are horrible for one situation but awesome for others!
It always changes. Okay, this is where it can get confusing for new people, but I will explain it. Well, depending on what you choose in those top two areas, it dramatically changes the sliders and options beneath! But I use many of the other combinations as well. After you have fun playing with the sliders, click Process and then you are ready for Finishing Touches.
Finishing touches allow you to make a few more final changes in Photomatix before you save the image. Personally, I do not stop here. I have a few more steps that I go through using different tools in order to get the final image. Step 4: Post-processing Now that you are done with merging the photos into one HDR photograph you can continue editing the shot in your favourite processing program. Today, we are going to use Lightroom to make another version of that image. In my actual day-to-day processing, I may make several Photomatix versions and several Lightroom versions.
The final step, you will see, if you will let me jump ahead, is to layer them all in Photoshop and then combine them into something totally unique that speaks to your personality and your sense of art-self. Maybe this means something to you. Then go into Develop mode and apply or create a preset which would add drama to the centre of your photograph. Usually a well faded vignette will do the trick.
Many of them do the things that HDR does. The most important sliders are shown in the image below on the top left. As with all these, you can click to zoom in on the image above so you can deconstruct how the preset works.
By the way, that is the same temporary directory where I have my Photomatix file. Below, you can see the two images side by side. I took all these photos with 1 EV apart. Pro Tip: Before starting a new sequence, take a photo with your hand in the frame. Doing so will help you separate one group of sequences from another. You will be combining different images. Thus, you should have as little movement as possible between the frames. Set up your camera on a tripod. Use a remote shutter to avoid camera shake.
It is also best to photograph a scene without fast-moving clouds, people, or traffic. A certain degree of movement among the different exposures is OK. You can correct it with a de-ghosting procedure, available in any HDR software. In the image below, the clouds moved, creating patches in the sky top image.
I then removed this by de-ghosting bottom. Lightroom and Photoshop have a Photo Merge mode. Doing so allows you to combine different photos into a single HDR image. But you can auto-align the images. This feature is useful for handheld sequences. You can also apply auto settings to the final exposure. Furthermore, you can adjust the level for the Deghost.
Photomatix is the big guy in the HDR world. You can reimport the images from Lightroom automatically. It has many options and presets. You can choose different methods to create HDR. Some of the tools you can use include Detail enhancer, Tone mapping, Tone, and more. This feature creates a basic bit HDR image you can edit in Lightroom. Many phone cameras have an HDR mode function in their default camera app.
An HDR image contains a huge amount of data that can be extracted, and dark areas can be brightened up quite a lot to reveal the smallest details. But this does not mean you should do it. The amount of details you show across the scene is only one aspect of a good photograph: contrast is the other part. Flattening the image by reducing the contrast between the original bright and dark areas is often bad practice. It makes the image look less natural, difficult to understand and not really appealing.
For sure, black clouds are real in bad weather , but the puffy clouds scattered in a blue sky are mostly white. You should keep them as such in your HDR image. Halos around highly contrasted edges are the first indicator that you have over-processed your image by boosting the contrast and clarity too much. Those halos are typical of too many HDR images posted online and are, simply put, rubbish. Instead, use our tips to help you create natural results. Check out our post on how to use tone mapping next!
For in-depth knowledge on how to edit in Lightroom, take a look at our Effortless Editing course! Leaving your camera on its default settings will produce blurry results. Share with friends Share.
Show Comments 1 Hide Comments. Once you have completed the shoot, download the images to your computer. Some of the shots might look over exposed or under exposed, thats OK, in fact they must look like that.
I will be explaining the Photomatix software in this article. You can download a trial version of Photomatix from their website. It is fully functional, the only thing is that the trial version puts a watermark on the image. This is OK for trying it out, you will see exactly what the software can do, if you think it is worth it, then you can buy it. Ok, so here is how you take your images into Photomatix Pro. Select the options displayed on the screen above. Preprocessing options are available.
Make selections on the box as shown in the screenshot above. Then click preprocess and Photomatix Pro will begin to tone map the images into a composite bit image. This process is generally quite quick, between 30 seconds and a minute. Once complete, click on the Tone Mapping button. On this screen, you are able to select a variety adjustments that will create an overall change to the image. There are no absolutes here. Each adjustment makes minor or major differences to the image and the combination of the adjustments provides diverse options.
I would avoid using these as they are generally overdone. Try and use the functions on the left hand side to edit your image. Below are the details about each function on the left hand side of the screen and what each does. One of the best ways to see what a function does is to slide it all the way over to the left and then to the right and see how it affects your image, but here are the details:. Once this part of the process is finished, then it is time to take the image into Photoshop.
Save the tone mapped image and then re-open it in Photoshop. This is a very basic workflow. It will enhance the lighting and tonality in your images. These techniques are discussed here at high level. Photoshop has a function called Shadows and Highlights. Use this tool to bring out detail in the shadows of your image. This function is not great for adjusting highlights, so use it for the shadows only.
Shadow and Highlights function in Photoshop. The levels function in Photoshop is for adjusting the lighting in an image.
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